Sally by the Sea

Sally enjoying the sea breeze

My favorite time to visit the beach is in the fall, when the weather is still pretty nice and the summertime crowds are gone. Water wings, folding chairs and suntan lotion are out; quiet fishermen, the odd jogger or dog walker is in! This is Sally’s favorite time also, she thinks it’s always best when the shore birds outnumber the sunbathers. Another benefit of a crisp fall day at the beach is the constant breeze, with Sally’s ears at full sail.

Happy Thanksgiving to everyone here and across the sea!

North Carolina's Crystal Coast

A Girl’s Best Friend

Sami Stoner of Ohio running a cross country race with her dog Chloe

A few years ago, Sami Stoner was just a regular 8th grade school girl in Ohio who loved to run cross country but things started to change when she began having trouble with her vision. After many tests it was confirmed that she had a rare eye disease and she would never recover. While still able to see somewhat, she describes everything as blurry colors and shadows, and was therefore designated as legally blind. Although she’s able to make use of certain aids to help her read and study, her love of running appeared to have to end because of the danger involved. Or did it?

Through the help of a specially trained golden retriever named Chloe from the Pilot Dogs organization, Sami was able to resume her love of running cross country for her high school team, having just run her last senior year race last month. As you might expect, she and Chloe have developed an incredible bond that continues off the racecourse as well. ESPN featured this inspirational 10-minute story recently on their site, and you can watch it here. And yes, once again you’ll need a kleenex.

For Veterans Day

Image

In honor of Veterans Day here in America, I wanted to share some information about a great group called American Dog Rescue. One of the projects this foundation is involved with is helping to airlift soldiers’ adopted dogs from Afghanistan to reunite them back here in the US. These were stray dogs that crossed paths with the troops while they were serving there and bonding with them, supplying them with love and support during the hardship of war and long separation from home. There’s a great short video from NBC Nightly News here, filmed about a year ago at JFK as a group of soldiers were reunited with their canine pals when they arrived for a new life in America. Get a kleenex!

American Dog Rescue supports many other great projects, and another veteran-related one is Paws4Vets which works to pair dogs with veterans suffering from PTSD and other traumas, also for veterans from many other countries. A big salute to American Dog Rescue, Paws4Vets and of course our wonderful veterans and the dogs that make each day brighter for them. We are forever in your debt.

If you’d like more information on American Dog Rescue and Paws4Vets, please click here.

Photo courtesy of American Dog Rescue

A Beautiful Sunday : Varazze & Genoa

Image

One Sunday in Italy a few weeks ago, a local friend offered to give me a quick tour of Varazze and Genoa. The weather for some of my trip had been drizzly, cloudy and very much like you’d expect to find in the north of Italy in October, but somehow over the weekend the temperatures warmed up to about 85 degrees and that was perfect for visiting two Mediterranean spots. I peeled off my sweater! I took off my socks! It was a wonderful break.

First we went to Varazze, a small city along the coast west of Genoa. People were on the beach in their swimsuits, kids playing, people strolling. There were kids doing their sailing classes, proud parents waiting on the pier. It felt like summer! Eventually I had to stop for the obligatory gelato. A very nice town.

Image

And of course there were dogs, lots of them out and about enjoying the gorgeous weather. Luckily my friend was (sort of) okay with me snapping away with my camera, taking pictures of his countrymen’s dogs. Actually, after noticing more dogs than he normally would, he’s beginning to consider getting himself a dog. :-)

Image

This gorgeous full-of-life boy is Athos, and I just love his stride. You can see that he enjoys cruising along like he owns the harbor (maybe he does?) and occasionally stirring things up with the other dogs he meets.

Image

Next, we jumped into the car and zipped off to Genoa. I was shocked (okay, horrified) to see a dog riding on the Vespa directly ahead of us. It’s not so much that the dog was on a Vespa (although that’s scary enough) but this dog was not in any type of carrier and was free to move around the rider’s feet! At one point his head was sticking out from the right side, and then he completely turned to poke his head out the left side, which is when I took this photo. Look closely and you can see the pup’s brown and white head. Hmmm :-/

Image

Genoa was a much larger city than I’d expected. It was also very interesting, with some of the most beautiful buildings and narrow streets I’d ever seen. My tour guide/friend pointed out lots of interesting places and offered some historical background and facts (for example, the streets are narrow to cut down on strong winds). When we arrived, he pointed out one area in particular near the waterfront saying “you probably wouldn’t want to walk around in there alone at night.” Okay. So as the sun began to set, the reason became obvious: the prostitutes started coming out and doing their thing. What’s surprising about that, at least to me, is that it was still relatively early evening, around 6pm. People were still out with their kids! I think even my friend was a little shocked.

Image

So I have to admit, somewhere along the line (design school? some movie?) I’d heard something less than nice about Genoa. I can’t remember what it was exactly, but I think it was described as nothing more than a grubby port city. I didn’t find that to be the case at all, nothing shabby about Genoa. In fact, the whole seafarer/exploration aspect was evident everywhere and I could feel its adventurous maritime past wafting in the air. After this quick day trip, I’m looking forward to spending more time in Genoa myself, and I’d highly recommend it to you also! And yes, there were lots of dogs (and pesto & focaccia)!

Image

Molto Bene: Dogs + Gelato

20121019-152345.jpg

Today in Varese I visited Buosi, the best gelato place in town, as I was told by two locals. Okay, so I was there yesterday too, but today I also met some great dogs and their really nice owners. And, I think I have a reputation now around Varese as the odd dog following lady: I was recognized by the people who own that gigantic Bernese mountain dog in my last post. Oh well, they were smiling when they saw me!

20121019-152457.jpg

These two had a few of those little biscotti for a snack and they were pretty happy. The one at the back is 14, maybe that’s the trick for a long life?

20121019-152843.jpg

20121019-153101.jpg

I Like Varese

Image

20121017-224831.jpg

Okay, well I’ve only been here for a few hours, but I think I’ve seen more dogs here than anywhere else in Italy.

20121017-225155.jpg

This one was being good hanging outside a cafe, but he really wanted to come inside. It’s difficult for me to capture the scale of this dog, he was enormous. If my dog George who is 92 pounds put on a fat suit, he still wouldn’t be as big.

20121017-225506.jpg

Then these two characters seemed like long lost pals. Or siblings?

20121017-225619.jpg

20121017-225702.jpg

Everywhere I looked, there were more.

20121017-225838.jpg

20121017-225913.jpg

20121017-230021.jpg

20121017-230048.jpg

For each one I photographed, there were 5 or 6 more that I didn’t. They were inside shops and sharing appetizers in bars. Little ones, big ones, old ones and puppies. So here in Varese, dogs seem to be the thing. I like Varese.

Feast Day of St. Francis of Assisi

St. Francis of Assisi with dog statue at Monterosso Al Mare, Italy

Today, October 4, is the feast day for St. Francis of Assisi. If you’re not familiar with St. Francis of Assisi, one of the many remarkable things he’s known for is that he is the patron saint of animals. Every year on this day or around this time Catholic and Anglican churches will offer blessings for the animals in his honor, and you are invited to bring your pets for a service. One year I attended a beautiful service at The National Shrine of Saint Francis of Assisi in San Francisco, and it was a wonderful experience. The pews were full of dogs large and small, a few reptiles and as the priest put it “one very brave cat.” 

St. Francis is also closely linked to ecology and the environment. For World Environment Day in 1982 Pope John Paul II said that St. Francis’ love and care for creation offered this reminder: “not to behave like dissident predators where nature is concerned, but to assume responsibility for it, taking all care so that everything stays healthy and integrated, so as to offer a welcoming and friendly environment even to those who succeed us.”

I believe that regardless of one’s personal beliefs, these words and the values that St. Francis stood for transcend any specific religion and speak to us all.

Happy Feast Day, St. Francis!

If you’d like to read more about St. Francis of Assisi, Wikipedia has a good article here.

Those Who Stay

Umberto Boccioni, study for "Those Who Stay"

On my last trip to Milan, a local friend suggested that I visit the Museo del Novecento which is located just a few steps from the Duomo. So I did, and I highly recommend it to anyone that would like to spend a few hours looking at some wonderful 20th century works of art. It’s also a beautiful building, with an interesting layout that includes a winding climb and lots of escalators. In fact, the building’s layout was so interesting that I had to get help a few times from the kind security people on a couple of the floors (but what else is new?).

One piece that stopped me in my tracks (causing me to hover around it for so long that I drew attention from the security people) is this one titled Those Who Stay by Italian artist Umberto Boccioni. It’s sort of one of three pieces that make up the series titled States of Mind about parting ways at a train station. And when I say “sort of” it’s because this is actually a study and not the finished version of Those Who Stay, but I like it better. Don’t get me wrong, I like the Futurist movement as much as the next guy with all of those geometric shapes and Cubist flavor, but this one seems much more compelling to me for a specific reason: it oozes heaviness and sadness. The other two pieces in the States of Mind series are titled Those Who Go and The Farewells.

The reason I’m drawn to this painting is because I’ve always hated goodbyes, and I think it captures that sadness completely. I’m talking about final goodbyes and the emptiness you feel when your loved one is no longer in this world. For me and a lot of other people, the loss of a pet has the same heart-ripped-out pain and devastation and the only thing that helps me heal is to remember that I’m not alone in this. In this painting, all of the left behind streaky figures share the sadness of loss and goodbye together. It’s amazing how art can affect you that way whether you like it or not, pulling you headfirst into a sea of emotion with a language of its own, but without any words. Like a sad, sad song that matches just the way you feel inside, you can gaze into a painting like this whenever you need to and just feel sad because you must.

One of my dogs isn’t well. His name is Nicholas, and I haven’t featured him on the blog yet because he’s been declining since I started it in July and it’s just been too hard. I don’t know how long he has left, I don’t think there’s anything else I can do, and I’m facing that awful decision. But one thing I do know is at some point I will be spending a lot of time gazing into Boccioni’s Those Who Stay.

Visit Museo del Novecento.
This link will take you to MoMA’s Collection page, where you can see the Boccioni series (click NEXT when you get there to see all three paintings in sequence).
A good article on Umberto Boccioni can be found here.

The In-Betweens

Looking out along the Ligurian coast in Camogli

It’s about that time. The time when I get all of my big ideas and crossed fingers (so to speak) packed up for the next trip to Italy for Pantofola. All I have to do is keep my eye on the horizon for inspiration, just like every other explorer ever, reminding myself that anything is possible even when you’re a small entrepreneur with a carry-on bag full of crossed fingers.

Certainly having your own business has its perks, everybody knows that. But when that business involves regular travel to a place like Italy, those perks are pretty darn perky. Sure, there is a certain amount of stress with running around, business discussions, putting your best foot forward and feeling like you’re always on the mark. That’s all pretty exhilarating. But there are also the in-between moments and experiences, and that is the best part.

Images from business travel trips to Italy

Sometimes you can capture those moments in pictures or videos, but not always. It might just be the scent of freshly baked chocolate croissants or a few minutes of eavesdropping on gossip in a café. Or a brief but memorable interaction. On a recent rail journey, I sat in my window seat dreading the moment I’d have to get my bag down from the overhead rack because it was pretty heavy. And it’s not that I couldn’t get it down myself, but I figured it wouldn’t be very graceful and I didn’t want to whack anyone. As we approached my station, I stepped over the guy next to me and stood in the aisle, trying to keep my balance. When I felt fairly stable, I reached above but suddenly a guy on the other side of the aisle (who looked a lot like Viggo Mortensen) looked up from his phone, jumped up and got the bag down for me safely. Embarrassed at the weight of the bag, I thanked him and apologized about it, but of course he said the perfect suave Italian guy thing in the perfect nonchalant manner: “It was my pleasure to help you, so it was no problem.” Swoon. Oh. Okay. Well, that I’ll remember. No photo necessary.

More images of trips to Italy

Who’s Helping Whom?

Zach and Oasis the Mastiff Girl

The burned puppies. The mastiff found in the desert and 60 pounds underweight. The one with its ears cut off and then abandoned. The shelters packed with healthy dogs heading for euthanasia. It’s really difficult to imagine those things, isn’t it? Witnessing this steady stream of cruelty and sadness on a daily basis is easily enough to drive you to drink. Or, maybe it’s enough to make you stop.

Looking at Zach Skow today, you see a handsome guy in his early 30’s, healthy and fit. And he is that. If you googled “quintessential SoCal guy”, his picture would pop up and you might say to yourself, “well, you know that guy’s had a charmed life.” But the reality is that just a few years ago he was almost at his end, he’d been drinking himself to death since he was a teenager. By age 28 in 2009, Zach had no will to live, he knew he was going to die, and although he was offered a liver transplant, the first requirement was to stay sober for six months and get into better shape. But where do you begin?

Well, a funny thing happened on the road to sobriety. Or maybe a funny thing happened on the way to saving a few dogs. Either way you look at it, it’s an amazing and inspiring feat. Zach was living with his dad on his 16-acre property in Tehachapi, California. There were a few rescue dogs that his dad had taken in, and Zach began taking them on short walks. Then longer walks. And then more walks. Zach began to feel better, because he was better. The dogs were also doing better, and gradually their numbers grew. And so began Marley’s Mutts.

Dogs from Marley's Mutts in Tehachapi, California

In just a few short years and many walks later, Zach has saved somewhere in the neighborhood of 600 dogs. He’s built a trustworthy network of foster homes and a good rapport with local veterinarians and shelters. Recently he’s been able to add a few extra folks to help, including an amazing trainer. So Zach and his dog Marley (a Rottweiler/Pitt Bull mix and the organization’s namesake) take it a day at a time, rescuing, socializing and finding homes for as many dogs as they can. As a part of their mission, the group caters to larger dogs, although not exclusively. But most importantly, as stated on their website: “strays, derelicts, vagrants and hobos often need to be correctly socialized—and that is what we specialize in.” From the looks of these faces, I’d say Zach is doing a spectacular job. If you didn’t know better, you’d think these happy dogs had never suffered a dark day.

Zach Skow and his mutts in Tehachapi, California

Zach and his Marley’s Mutts have been getting more and more media attention lately, whether it’s to promote addiction recovery or dog rescue. Oprah likes him, he’ll be featured on Dr. Drew’s show sometime this month, and he’s spreading the word however he can. At some point down the road, don’t be surprised if Zach is instrumental in developing some type of program to help others facing addiction to become sober with the aid of a dog. As Zach has shown already, anything is possible. And a lovely testament to the strength of the human spirit, and the canine spirit as well.

If you would like to donate to Marley’s Mutts, learn more about them, or see the adoptable dogs, please visit their website here. You can also like their Facebook page here.
There is also a great article on Zach’s recovery here.

All photos courtesy Marley’s Mutts